tbbr wrote:Where are the most reliable and best value locations for second hand cars.
We pass the main dealers on the 125 and the various car lots every time we come over but have no idea where to start looking for a car.
Does any one have any stories good or bad of their experiences.
Stories, good or bad, won't do you a bit of good buying a used car, my friend.
Caveat Emptor is the key word when you buy a used car.
Here is an informative link......
http://www.hsmv.state.fl.us/dmv/usedcar.html#8
To my way of thinking, the Drive Test is the bottom line....after all, if the damned thing craps out on you, or becomes a major expience down the road, what good is it?
Basic Test Drive......
Start the engine and press down on the brake.
The brake pedal should go down only an inch or two and should feel firm and solid, not spongy.
Press down on the brakes for about a minute.
If the pedal sinks slowly, there may be a leak in the master cylinder.
As the engine warms up, listen for any noises such as knocks, ticking and rattles, which could indicate engine problems.
Next, put the car in neutral and rev the engine.
Look in the rear view mirror to see if there is any smoke coming out of the exhaust.
If there is a lot of white or bluish smoke, the engine may need an overhaul.
At idle, the engine should be smooth and quiet.
Punch the gas pedal to see if the engine responds without hesitation and then returns to normal idle.
When first starting out, drive slowly to get the feel of the car.
The automatic transmission should shift smoothly without jerking, slipping or hesitating.
A manual transmission should shift smoothly between gears without grinding
The clutch should engage and disengage smoothly without grabbing or chattering
and don't forget to make sure the reverse works.
Drive on a flat, smooth road and lift your hands slightly from the wheel.
The car should track straight and be stable without vibration.
If the car pulls in either direction or "shimmies", a front end alignment or other front end repairs may be necessary.
To test the brakes, accelerate to 30 to 40 miles per hour.
Make sure there are no cars behind you, then step hard on the brake pedal, but do not lock the wheels.
The brakes should grab evenly and the car should slow down in a straight line.
If the car pulls to the left or right, it indicates the need for brake adjustment or a system re-build.
A grinding noise indicates badly worn pads or linings.
Drive at 35 miles per hour and listen for any unusual noises.
If you hear a whining sound from the rear-end, it may need replacing.
Next, accelerate to 45 miles per hour.
If the front end shakes or vibrates, the tires probably need balancing.
Drive quickly over a rough road and listen for any loud squeaks or rattles.
If the car bounces or bangs over small bumps, the shock absorbers may be worn and need replacing.
After you have driven the car for a while, check the temperature gauge to see if it shows a high reading or if the temperature warning light (be sure this works!) comes on.
These are signs of trouble with the cooling system and they can be very expensive.
To test engine response, accelerate hard on an empty road.
The car should respond immediately.
Back off and hit the gas again.
There should be no hesitation or smoke from the car.
The engine should accelerate smoothly with no strange noises.
You may want to find a steep hill to check the engine's power.
If there is a significant loss in power while climbing, the car may need an overhaul or a tune-up.
While you're on the hill, test out the hand brake to make sure that it holds the car.
When you are through with the test drive, it's a good idea to turn off the car for a minute or two.
Then restart the engine to see how well it starts when hot.
Check again for leaks under the hood and beneath the car.
Some leaks may only appear after driving.
It's also a good idea to check the tailpipe.
An engine that is burning oil will leave a black, sooty oil deposit.
A white, powdery residue usually means good fuel combustion.
Hope this helps, Tbbr.
